This photo was taken on Obispo Street in Old Havana, Cuba. Dating from 1519, this street is only four years younger than Havana itself. Leading straight to Plaza de Armas, it is lined with shops, hotels, and government buildings. Extremely photogenic at any time of day or night, it is popular with locals and tourists.
Lights on Obispo Street
This photo was taken on May 12, 2016. It was converted to black and white using Silver Efx Pro. A little grain was added to increase the moodiness. Specs are:
At the corner of Amargura and San Ignacio in Old Havana, Cuba, is a health food store called Mercado Bethania. We didn’t go there. We stood on the corner to take a photo of the building across the street, because someone had hung their laundry on a second-story balcony to dry. The colors of the laundry items echo the colors of the window frames – blues and white – with just enough red accents for interest. The next time you are in Old Havana, take your eyes off the vintage cars and look up – to find ordinary everyday life.
When we visited Cuba last May, we had dinner one evening at Restaurant Moneda Cubana on the corner of Mercaderes and Empedrado Streets, near the Cathedral Square. We had a table for two on the rooftop, at the edge, with a beautiful view of the fort across the Bay of Havana and of the surrounding buildings and the small park below where boys were playing. Beside our building was another building being renovated, with signs all around the building showing what it would look like when completed. While we were in Old Havana for a week, we never saw any actual work in progress on that building, or any indication that the renovated building would look like the imagined building.
From our table in the restaurant, we had an excellent view inside one room of the building under renovation. The room, with bricks propping open the shutters on either side, was empty except for a man who stood in the window periodically, probably because it was cooler there. He was dressed too well to be a worker and it was too late in the day to be working. Was he a foreman, a squatter, or someone else? We never knew.
From his perch in that window, the man observed the tourists walking beneath him. They never looked up. From our higher perch at our table, we observed the man. He never looked up. We were in almost the same place but worlds apart.
Caridad got up at 6:30. We discussed turning on the TV to see what Cuba shows looked like, but decided against it because it was still early. At that moment, a sound like a jackhammer began at the wall with the TV. After checking the TV (not on) and the refrigerator (no sound), we concluded that the sound was airhammering in the waterpipes. As confirmation, the jackhammer stopped in a few minutes and we could hear the sound of the shower of our next-door neighbor. Well, after that, we knew we weren’t waking up our neighbor, so we checked out the TV shows, which weren’t that interesting, so off the set went again.
We went down to breakfast in the hotel breakfast room, the Salon Miramar Buffet, at about 8. Breakfast was buffet style, and nothing looked appetizing, ranging between the unappealing and the inedible. We each tried eggs, fruit, and other options, and settled on toast as the best choice. This was only possible because Lazaro repaired the toaster, which had serious flaws: the bread went through so fast that it had no time to toast, and because of the speed and the misalignment of the conveyor belts, the toast was propelled off the conveyor belt at the back of the run, requiring the use of tongs (and risking a burn and electrocution) to grab the toast. Lazaro assessed the problem and adjusted the speed and the alignment of the toaster conveyor belt. After this, there was a great demand for the toaster. (We expect that the toaster will be returned to its previous inefficient operation by tomorrow. We shall see.) Caridad’s hard-boiled egg was normal and she was thankful for that. Among the pastries were baguettes, which looked unappetizing and would make a Frenchman cry. On the other hand, after the first cup (which was only creamed water as it came out of the coffee maker), the coffee was delicious. We can’t understand why the food is so bad, since the ingredients are available. They are just badly prepared.
We were in the lobby waiting for the guide well before the 9:30 meeting time. We met the rest of the group: the other 5 group members arrived yesterday on flights from Miami. The 13th group member should arrive sometime today. While waiting, we learned from other tour members that they had tried to buy internet cards but were told that the internet is not working anywhere in Havana because it is Mother’s Day. (The guide told us later that the internet was overwhelmed by people calling their mothers.)
The weather continues to be fine, mid to high 70s and breezy, with a few beautiful clouds in a light blue sky. Sitting in the outer part of the hotel lobby is very pleasant. With the doors and windows open there, the breeze is quite pleasant. The walls are covered with framed photographs of buildings, which must be Havana; while the pictures are unremarkable, the total effect is pleasing.
Monument of Junípero Serra (with Juaneño Indian boy), Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís
Fountain at Plaza de San Francisco
The bus took us to Old Havana, where we explored three important squares and surrounding buildings (outsides only): Plaza de San Francisco facing the harbor at the entrance to Old Havana; Plaza de Armas with its statue of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes del Castillo and second-hand book stalls, and Plaza de la Catedral.
Plaza de San Francisco
Plaza de San Francisco
At the Plaza de San Francisco, there were two ladies in costumes with props of flowers, wanting money for picture taking. Since we had no small bills, we declined the opportunity. At this square and the next, there was a sketch artist who would sketch out a picture of a group member and then approach that person to be paid. Usually we were safe from such people (except the “artists”) when in the group, but anyone stepping away from the group to look at something or take a picture seemed to be fair game.
Carlos Manuel de Céspedes del Castillo
Lamp post, Plaza de Armas
Bookstalls at Plaza de Armas
The statue in the Plaza de Armas used to be that of King Fernando VII, but after the revolution, someone cut off the nose of the statue; this statue now stands in the loggia of the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales on the west side of the plaza.
Statuary at Plaza de la Catedra
Plaza de la Catedral
Plaza de la Catedral
Interior of Catedral de San Cristóbal
The above pictures were taken in the Plaza de la Catedral.
Moat and walls, Castillo de la Real Fuerza
Cannon in Castillo de la Real Fuerza
We also spent a few minutes in Castillo de la Real Fuerza, a fort bordering the Plaza de Armas.
Hotel Ambos Mundos
Hotel Ambos Mundos
At the corner of Calle Obispo and Mercaderes, the guide pointed out a window of a room rented by the famous writer Ernest Hemingway on the top floor of the Hotel Ambos Mundos.
La Bodeguita del Medio
Tourists outside La Bodeguita del Medio
Wall of La Bodeguita del Medi with photographs of Ernest Hemingway
Around the corner from this hotel is La Bodeguita del Medio, a bar frequented by Hemingway, which served, in his opinion, the best mojito (one created by himself). (An internet search suggests that Hemingway’s involvement with this bar and with mojitos may be a fabrication that began as a joke but became a legend.)
Our group of 12 (at the moment) seems to be widely different in interests and political views. The guide listens politely, but quickly changes the subject back to what we are there to see. The guide has a very good understanding of the history of her country, and she and we understand that she is doing her job.